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Glory Days - Mini cabinet (worklog)

Arcade cabinet building, control panel building, woodworking, arcade cabinet restoration etc. This is the place where you can post your "worklog" and keep people updated on your latest project.

Glory Days - Mini cabinet (worklog)

Postby Dekar on Tue Aug 04, 2009 9:58 am

"Glory Days"

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Custom built MAME cabinet which started as a bartop cabinet, but ended up as a mini cabinet. ;)



Specifications:

- Hardware: Intel Core 2 Duo E7400 @ 2.8GHz, 2GB Kingston PC6400 DDR2 RAM, 160GB SATA2 7200RPM HDD, 17" Phillips LCD 5ms monitor, XFX GeForce 8800GTS GPU.

- Software: Microsoft Windows XP Pro SP3 stripped using NLite, boots directly into Maximus Arcade V2.10

- Cabinet: UA II Bartop kit from Mameroom.com

Emulators installed:

- MAME (complete romset)

- SNES (complete romset)

- NES (complete romset)

- Sega Genesis (complete romset)

- Future Pinball (tables added continuously)

Scroll down for work-log (with lots of pictures).
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Re: Glory Days - Mini cabinet (worklog)

Postby Dekar on Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:11 am

Day 1 - Frontend design and artwork design

I've decided to name the bartop "Glory Days". I was first thinking of something like "MAME Machine" or "Retroblaster" etc., but I figured "Glory Days" would be a nice name as that is just what the arcade will represent; those glorious 80's and 90's.

For the control panel, I went for the following hardware:

- J-Stik red balltop (4/8-way microswitched) from Ultimarc.com
- Classic pushbuttons (microswitched) from Ultimarc.com
- Ultimarc solid white 2 1/4" trackball from Ultimarc.com
- Mini-PAC interface from Ultimarc.com

Marquee and CPO:

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(Not made from scratch, but I purchased a nice image off iStockphoto.com and modified it heavily in Photoshop to make the CPO and marquee).

I also customized the Maximus Arcade skin so it matched the rest of the cabinet:

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Re: Glory Days - Mini cabinet (worklog)

Postby Dekar on Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:15 am

Day 2 - Unboxing cabinet kit

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As soon as I got the package home from the FedEx facility, I noticed that it had taken quite a beating during the shipment, so I figured I should take a picture of it, in case the parts were all mashed up.

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Luckily, after unwrapping, the parts looked perfectly fine and I even got impressed how precise the cutting was. All the pieces were there also, including the long strip of black t-molding. The only thing that set me off was the massive amount of polystyrene broken into bits and pieces. Remember if you’re going to get a kit like this yourself, have a vacuum in handy when unwrapping; you will need it.

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After vacuuming both myself, my dog and of course the cabinet parts, I racked them up against the wall waiting to be assembled.

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I also got the trackball and trackball mounting plate that day, which looked and felt exactly how I expected; great!

All I really needed now before I started the assembly was the marquee and control panel overlay from Mamemarquees.com.
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Re: Glory Days - Mini cabinet (worklog)

Postby Dekar on Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:18 am

Day 3 - Flipper buttons and t-molding

Ok, so I was still waiting for the marquee and control panel graphics, but I started to get impatient so I slowly started working on the cabinet.

First, the holes for the flipper-buttons had to be expanded a little, as I drilled them a little too tight for the pushbuttons to fit:

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The holes were way too tight and I can’t believe I missed that much when I drilled them.

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It took me at least half an hour of grinding before the holes were expanded enough for the pushbuttons to fit.

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[IRONY]The buttons fit perfectly thanks to my outstanding woodworking skills. ;D [/IRONY]

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At this point I didn't know if I had to change the direction of the microswitches later. I hadn’t really measured the placement of the flippers accurately enough, so I wasn't sure if they would fit at all.

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Next, it was time to apply the t-molding. It was a little tricky to start with, but I got the hang of it soon enough. I used a small hammer to knock the molding carefully into the pre-cut ’sockets’.

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At the outside corners, I cut a V-shaped notch in the t-molding to make sure it was applied as firm and smooth as possible.

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Re: Glory Days - Mini cabinet (worklog)

Postby Dekar on Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:20 am

Day 4 - Cabinet assembly and more t-molding

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The control panel needed t-molding as well. Good thing Mameroom included plenty of it.

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After applying the t-molding I took a sharp razor and cut along the edges so it lined up perfectly with the panels.

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It definitely looked a lot better after cutting off excessive t-molding.

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Next, it was time to install the threaded pins into the side panels. They fit the pre-drilled holes perfectly, but remember to install them gently or they will crack the panels.

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After finishing installing the pins it was time to install the assembly cams.

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I tried first to attach the cams using my thumb, but the holes were so tight I had to use a hammer to knock the cams down with. Be gentle here as well or you will damage your panels. My hammer is from World War I by the way..

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After all the cams were in place I could start assembling some of the cabinet parts.

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The assembly is fairly easy, thanks to the drop-on assembly cams. A regular screwdriver is all you need.

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Re: Glory Days - Mini cabinet (worklog)

Postby Dekar on Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:26 am

Day 5 - The control panel

So I finally received the control panel overlay and marquee artwork! Now I could start working on the control panel.

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The prints were rolled up nicely and carefully packed in a “tube”. No damage whatsoever to the overlays.

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I was impressed by the high quality prints. Vibrant color prints with a scratch-resistant coating that can take a good beating. The control panel overlay is laminated with polycarbonate, the same material used in bulletproof vests. ;)

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Another shot of the prints.

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First, I used masking tape to “test fit” the control panel overlay. I didn’t want to get it wrong, as you can’t adjust the overlay once it’s stuck to the panel.

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Backside of the control panel, masking tape still attached.

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I applied the overlay, making sure there were no air bubbles. After applying the overlay, I used a razor to cut out the holes for the buttons, joystick and trackball.

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The easiest part was cutting out the hole for the trackball. All straight lines and more than enough room to handle the razor.

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The button holes were harder to cut, but after a few “practice runs” I got the hang of it. You want to use a narrow razor for this task.

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After finishing the overlay it was time to start mounting the pushbuttons, joystick and trackball.

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Fastening the joystick was rather easy. Tip: Put a few drops of glue between the panel and the joystick plate, so that you can align it properly before fastening the wooden screws. You want to align it with the panel’s joystick hole (adjusting it from the printed side of the control panel) before you fasten the screws and that is rather tricky if the joystick plate is completely loose.

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After the joystick and buttons were attached, it was time to fasten the trackball. I don’t know if you can see it, but I missed a bit when drawing the control panel graphics. If you look at the 1-Player button and the one next to it, you can see that it’s not perfectly aligned with the brown circle.. :( Oh heck, doesn’t matter much really, as you can hardly notice it.

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Mounting the trackball was rather easy as well, thanks to the mounting plate kit. For my next project I will route the trackball plate down in the control panel so the CP overlay overlaps it as it'll definitely look a lot prettier that way.

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So there you have it, the control panel is all set for wiring! I’m quite happy with the design, even though I screwed the graphics up a bit on the top buttons.

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Test-fitting the control panel to make sure that nothing collides with the side flipper buttons.

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I got lucky! I didn’t take the joystick switches into consideration when drilling the side flipper holes, so I was afraid that they wouldn’t fit properly. As you can see, it’s not much room between them, but it’s more than enough to fasten the wires, so it’s all good!
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Re: Glory Days - Mini cabinet (worklog)

Postby Dekar on Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:31 am

Day 6 - Mounting the hardware

So I was still waiting for the wiring harness from Ultimarc which I needed for the control panel, therefore I was focusing on getting all the hardware mounted first.

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After some test-fitting, I marked the placement of the motherboard and started drilling the spacer holes.

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I intentionally drilled the holes a little too tight, allowing the spacers to be screwed in, securely fastening them to the panels.

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The compact mATX motherboard suits perfectly for this type of project.

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I had to be a bit creative to fasten the PSU, so I used a 3.5″ HDD plate from an old chassis and some fastening/foam tape for softening vibrations and securing the PSU to the panel.

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PSU securely fastened to the cabinet. It could look better, but it really is sturdy. :)

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You can see that after all the hardware is attached, there’s still plenty of room for the control panel wiring, power adapter(s) and monitor. I’m sure this can be done a lot prettier than how I’ve done it, but at least the hardware is properly secured and that’s all I wanted it to be.

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Re: Glory Days - Mini cabinet (worklog)

Postby Dekar on Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:35 am

Day 7 - Wiring the control panel

Well, I never received the wiring harness and I refused to wait any longer, so I decided to cut the Happ-connectors and solder them directly to the trackball wires.

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First, I drilled holes in the control panel to fit the Mini-PAC.

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Four screws and a few rubber feet is all it takes to securely fasten the light-weight Mini-PAC adapter.

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I had to open up the Logitech PC-speakers to make them fit inside the cabinet. I first tried to fit them with the chassis intact but the control panel wouldn’t fit at all.

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Without the speaker chassis, they both fit perfectly in the cabinet without interfering with anything else.

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When wiring the control panel, the only way I could connect the trackball was to cut off the Happ plugs (to the left) and solder them with the Ultimarc harness attached to the trackball. It worked perfectly and I have no idea why I didn’t do this a lot earlier..

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Wiring all the buttons and the joystick was quick and easy, using the pre-clamped Mini-PAC harness.

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It’s important that all the microswitches are grounded using a daisy-chain harness, or else they won’t work at all… - I know, this is probably the messiest wiring you’ve ever seen, but the most important thing is that it works. For my next project I will clamp the wires myself. It takes a lot more time, but the results are a lot prettier.

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After wiring the microswitches, I hooked the Mini-PAC up to my desktop computer to make sure all the buttons and joystick worked perfectly.

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If you look closely on this image you can see the wires I had to solder in order to make the trackball work.

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After I finished wiring the control panel, I attached it to the cabinet. This was .. hell! It barely fits and I had to make sure I didn’t put too much pressure on any microswitches, wires or the speakers below. Also fastening it was damn hard and I wouldn’t have made it if I didn’t have an L-shaped screwdriver. I also mounted the marquee lights which you can see on the very top of the cabinet.

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Fastening the marquee was quite easy. I just “sandwiched” the print between two pieces of plexiglass and fastened it with a couple of plastic retainers.
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Re: Glory Days - Mini cabinet (worklog)

Postby Dekar on Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:40 am

Day 8 - Configuring the system

So the cabinet was close to finished and it was time to configure the system. This is basically installing the OS, drivers, configuring the controllers and hotkeys, installing emulators, ROMs, front-end and making sure everything works flawlessly.

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I chose not to mount the monitor the way Mameroom suggested, as it involved drilling holes in my monitor chassis and fastening it to the cabinet using wooden screws. Instead, I picked up a monitor/TV wall-mount, which allows me to easily dismount the monitor, should it be necessary.

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Two massive wooden screws attaches the mounting plate to the wooden panels. This is a very sturdy way of mounting a monitor and I can easily “slide” the monitor in and out of it’s mounted position.

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After installing the monitor, it was time to start configuring the system. The system will run on a tiny Windows XP Pro setup (using Nlite to remove unwanted programs and services). The system boots in only a few seconds, which is optimal for an arcade cabinet.

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After installing the OS it was time to start copying over all the software and ROM files. My ROM collection exceeds 100GB so it took quite a while to copy it all over.

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Then it was time to configure the control panel the way I wanted it. Since I wanted this arcade cabinet to function entirely without a mouse or keyboard, it was important to set up a few shifted buttons to cover all necessary administrative tasks. Using Ultimarc’s WinIpac Panel Designer util, this was an easy task.

So, I got the OS installed, the roms copied over, emulators were installed and the control panel was configured. Then I had to start tweaking the OS and emulators, making sure that everything ran flawlessly. I completely cloaked Windows XP so that the system booted directly into the Maximus Arcade frontend and you can hardly see what operative system the box runs on.
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Re: Glory Days - Mini cabinet (worklog)

Postby Dekar on Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:51 am

Day 9 - The finishing touch

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After installing all the emulators, roms, testing, fixing bugs, testing again, fixing more bugs and then some more testing; the system was finally customized and fully functionable just the way I wanted it. It was time to finish the arcade cabinet by attaching the monitor bezel and the back panel.

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I temporarily attached the plexi-glass and used masking tape to trace the screen.

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Then; I removed the plexi and covered the entire “monitor surface” with masking tape. Make sure you have the entire surface covered, as even the tiniest breach in the masking tape will mess up the paint job.

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After using a razor blade and a ruler to carefully cut off the excessive tape, it was time to do some painting. I used spray paint, but I’ve heard that you can also use latex paint to paint the bezel with.

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I sprayed a layer of paint, then let it dry for a while, then sprayed another layer etc. I believe it took 4-5 layers before the plexi was sufficiently covered.

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I was surprised how nice the bezel looked when I faced the painted side inwards and let the light shine through it. I was very happy with the results on this one. :)

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While the bezel was put away to dry, I started attaching the back panel. As the back panel is the best (only) way to access the cabinet’s hardware, I believe it shouldn’t be fastened using wooden screws. Instead, I used a pair of hinges so I could easily open and close the back panel in case the cabinet needed service of some sort.

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Now I could just flip the back panel down, whenever I needed to access the cabinet’s hardware.

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I also attached the power button on the back panel. This is a power button I ripped out of an old ATX cabinet I had lying around. It’s actually pretty cool because the button is huge and it can be illuminated. Since I was using a powerstrip inside the cabinet, all the hardware (marquee lights, computer, monitor, speakers) are switched on by the push of this button.

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I also picked up a black wooden list which I thought would be a nice way of “separating” the control panel from the plexi/bezel.

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It’s hard to see the black list in this picture, but it actually gives the cabinet a nice finish and looks pretty cool.

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So what am I doing here? Well, I eventually decided that I didn’t just want to put the bartop cabinet on top of a bar (or table), so I decided to “convert” it into a mini-cabinet instead. Therefore, I went to IKEA and picked up a nice black dresser of some sort. It is as plain as it gets and it really looks good when it's attached to the cabinet.

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After putting the dresser/cupboard/whatever together, I put some black molding tape on top of it to fasten the cabinet and to prevent vibrations. The camera flash makes the dresser look brownish on this picture, but I assure you, it’s almost the same color (black) as the arcade cabinet and it suits it perfectly.

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No one wants a dirty arcade cabinet, so I wiped it off thoroughly before attaching it to the "dresser arcade stand".

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Ladies and gentlemen, I’m proud to present to you the final result:

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So I was finished. Done. Finito! The picture above does not really bring justice to the cabinet at all, as the flash makes the screen and marquee look very dark. Actually the screen is bright and colorful, while the marquee really lights up good in the dark.

This was my first cabinet project and I learned a lot during the process. For my next project I will build a larger upright cabinet for 2 or more players. I am thinking of using a 25"+ arcade monitor and perhaps also attach light-guns to the cabinet.

Feel free to ask any questions you might have. Until next time... Adios! :)

(Scroll up to the very first post for a larger image and a demo video I made)
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